Last visit was: Wed Apr 15, am Advanced search. Skip to content. Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process. I've tested it and it's working as it should. My concern is about insulation versus compromising the machine. Explaining: The pedal I built is entirely made of metal. The electrical insulation between the pedal housing is the standard, meaning, wires and the normal insulation between the pot and its terminals.
There is no electrical contact between the circuit and the housing at least at low voltages.3v3 moba offline naruto
I am worried about what would happen in the event that the pedal somehow comes in contact with the part to be welded and this part is not grounded with the cable of the machine. Could HF high voltage go beyond the normal insulation of wires and the pot and return to the machine? I have two welding tables and eventually when I change tables I forget to reground to the working table. If the pedal were touching the table we would have this situation described above.
I've never seen a commercial pedal internally and I do not know how this problem if it exists is solved. I already asked in another forum and I was told that wires and other components would have a standard V islolation and also make a choke in the cable as a trap for the HF. But I would like some more opinions. Thanks all. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post. That sends HF interference straight to earth ground through the machine chassis. However, it doesn't show that the pedal chassis is grounded.
I don't see a ground on the old metal Miller or the aftermarket metal SSC pedal. They may be using the same scheme as Lincoln. Nice work btw! What is the secondary pot for?Log in or Sign up. MIG Welding Forum. I have found an old pedal from a sewing machine which is sooo simple to modify. Inside is an old wired resistor on a ceramic cylinder.
It has multiple out-takes connected to 8 metal blades seperated by insulators. The pedal simply squeezes them together to sequentially join more of the resistors in series i guess.
However, since there is only 7 discrete steps at hand, should I make it linear or will I want smaller steps in the bottom or the top?? Which would be the most usable? Then I must figure out the cabling. But I have problems sourcing the original plugs used one two-point for the switch and one three-point for the amp control.
Where would you find aomething like this? Kind regards Michael Nielsen. Farnells used to amphernol plugs steve. A grand! Foot remotes are just a poteniometer, what's so special about the ESAB ones? Might be worth contacting SSC controls to see if they do something suitable- very nice pedals, they make OE pedals for Lincoln.
Messages: UK southwest. Do these foot pedals operate the same way as Guitar foot pedals?Connect arduino to siemens plc
Messages: 13, Cumbria. Depends on the voltages or current but worth a look. It is probably a 3-wire connection. If I remember right guitar footpedals are 2-wire. You need to us ethe right value potentiometer. Transformer-based units may have very specific requirements on the resistance value. My Airco specified a watt, ohm rheostat. Dialarcs are usually ohm 25w. Inverters usually don't care and most are k.
Maybe you can find a manual on the correct footpedal and it might specify the value of the pot or rheostat. Wiring it wrong or using the wrong value will burn up the unit or at least the pot. Don't do anything unless you know exactly what it needs. JWNov 7, Messages: Location: The Netherlands. In my area there is an electronics dump where they sell all kinds of military and high end stuff, i bet they have the right connector there they have a whole section with connectors.
If you can supply me with the right info i can ask them for the connector. GeorgeBNov 7, Do the thumb switch on the Gun do the same thing as the foot control pedal, what are the benefits of the foot peddle. A footpedal also varies the current. How do people get on with just the on and off thumb switch, looks like I will be needing a foot peddle when I get my TIG then, always something more to get. Depends on the machine.Login or Sign Up. Logging in Remember me.
Log in. Forgot password or user name? Posts Latest Activity. Page of 3. Filtered by:. Previous 1 2 3 template Next. I just, if it ever arrives, picked up a Thermal arc s on ebay I want to use for tig so I need a foot pedal.
I did a search and saw the ones by MikeW and Timinmb but hat's not what I'm looking for. Since the machine has the connection for the pedal I want to make use of it. Anyone know how to build it and what connections I need to where from the sockets?
I'll attatch the pic explaining the sockets from the manual but i didn't get them. Would the pedal from an old sewing machine or something else work? I saw somewhere once upon a time a pot that had a rod out of it for applications like this but I sure can't find them when I need them.
Should never trust mental notes. What pots should I use for this? Has anyone seen the pots I am reefering to above and know where to get them? Is there more to the pedal than just the pot and some simple circuits? Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks All, Shane. Tags: None.Adding proportional foot pedal control to a german-chinese TIG welder because the supplier "forgot" to add the correct connector.
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Choose more interests. This is a short project that deals with adding simple potentiometer-driven foot pedal current control to a TIG welder which is missing the appropriate connector, but has the necessary connections on the front panel PCB in the housing. The same hardware was obviously rebranded multiple times and is sold in many different housing designs. There surely is a risk of electrical shock and possibly fatal injury when working on a high powered welder, even when it's switched off and disconnected because of the rather big capacitors insideand maybe you can even burn your house down if you do something wrong.
You will at least lose your warranty if you do this. I call it "semi-analog" since the options are controlled via 9 potentiometers and 4 switches on the front panel, so you can not store any settings or profiles which does not matter for me as a hobbyist. The reviews on Amazon and some german DIY-Forums were also decent, especially concerning reliability and durability in a hobby environment. The german supplier even sells some spare parts.
The device also comes with all relevant documentation in german. As far as I recall, they claimed that the welder was their own design and was manufactured to their specifications in China.
A foot pedal was not included, but the seller even today lists a pedal especially for this welder in his Webshop. I ordered one right away.
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The pedal was on back order from China, so I couldn't test it when the welder arrived. There is no way to fiddle with the controls on the front panel when you have to watch your welding area. So I had to stop my test weld, put the torch away, change settings and start over again very often. The high frequency arc-start circuit also was not working reliably out of the box which i know now, after fixing it - at that time I thought I was too stupid to use the welder.
It would sometimes work for seconds and then go into "error mode" and not work again until the welder was power cycled. Also, you had to put the tungsten electrode very near to the welding material to get an arc to start mm even under best conditions totally clean material, reliable grounding, high starting current selected. This resulted in multiple times of "dipping" the tungsten in the weld and having to regrind it. I blamed that mostly on my inexperience and thought the rather frequent electrode contamination was the reason for the "error" states of the welder.
When the foot pedal for the welder finally arrived, I noticed that it had two GX16 connectors, one with 2 and one with 3 pins. My welder only has one 2-pin GX16 on the front panel, this is also used by the button control on the TIG torch. View project log.
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Create an account to leave a comment. This leads me to think that they are actually using that to completely switch over the potentiometer from panel to remote, which might be a slightly nicer solution than what you have so far. There are some models however that don't have this switch, I wonder how they do it. And why there is a difference. Are you sure? Become a member to follow this project and never miss any updates.
Foot pedal DIY
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The Home Machinist! A site dedicated to enthusiasts of all skill levels and disciplines of the metalworking hobby. Skip to content. Quick links. I have queries in to the manufacturer, but the company changed hands and nationalities since my machine was built, and is thus far unresponsive. Simultaneously I have contacted welder repairmen for a used foot controller, documentation, or both, and am awaiting replies.
This post explores another option. Manufactured Regards, Jim Brown. Sometimes you can get pretty good info there. Here is the link. However, this doesn't really answer the question that you should be asking, which is "Can I safely modify this thing to use a controlling device? Should be straight forward from there. No joy. You could write up your question to them, feed it through a translator program and see what ya get.
The other German firm has stated that they will fax me a copy of operator's manuals and sell me a foot pedal Since then no fax, no response, no quote for foot pedal.
None of these company's want to do business at least, of the nature of supporting used machinery.
I'm sure if I were interested in a new welder they'd be very responsive. In person, sometimes things get done better, perhaps a trip to Nuernberg is in order. If so, would it be possible to locate where the 5 pins go, and then just "copy" the setup on his machine? Granted the schematics are different, but feet, feathers,and a beak still make a bird. Just a thought I kind of get lost when there is over two wires.
Shoot, that's why I love my button for dc tig control. Got itLast visit was: Wed Apr 15, am Advanced search. Skip to content. Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process.Tig foot controller pedal modification
Need alternative to Tig foot pedal I also have a problem with my right hand that holds the torch. Can't work a torch switch. Does anyone have any kind of device that I can control using my teeth?
When I was in rehab I was able to control machines using a clench bar between my gums. So Does anyone think I could rig up a reostat that I can use with a tooth clech bar?? Re: Need alternative to Tig foot pedal I'm sure no one's ignoring you, but this is a bit out of left field so to speakand probably the opportunity to put forward some positive ideas are limited. That being said, let me try to do some investigations to see if there are any ideas.
Are you able to advise what model welder you have? There was a great forum article recently for a device that allowed Pulse control by inserting in series with a foot pedal.
I could see something like this being able to be adapted to take an analog input from a pressure sensor or similar and controlling the output. I wonder if member Jattus is reading this post and could share ideas? Best for now Trev. I'm thinking using a currently made mouth cable and connecting it to a rotary rheostat that also trips the micro-switch. The heavy spring isn't part of the rheostat, it's there for foot control feedback.
Is there any chance you could squeeze a foot control under an armpit or between your legs? Or maybe modified foot control on your lap where leaning forward presses down?Join our email list.Farmacia in italia in sardegna
Built with Volusion. Owners Manuals. Welding Videos. Contact Us. Ordering Information. Shipping Information. What People Say About Us Our foot pedal is compatible with the following Miller TIG welding machines: Econotig, Syncrowave, andthe Dynasty dx, as well as many other Miller solid state power sources utilizing a pin connector Serial number JK and higher.Landlord spells
Our foot pedal features an all steel construction and does not use plastic like the Miller pedal. Our pedal has a non-slip traction pad on both the base of the pedal and the top of the pedal, to make sure the pedal does not move on the floor, and your foot does not move on the pedal.
Our pedal has a metal pin connector, while Miller uses a plastic connector.
Our pedal is available with a 25' cable please see part Mwhile Miller only offers a 20' cable Our pedal is wider with a lower profile, making the foot pedal more stable than Miller's foot pedal.
Furthermore, our foot pedal is made in the USA, has a day money-back guarantee, and is backed by a 1-year warranty. Check the items you wish to purchase, then click.
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